All posts tagged bon appetit

Everything but the oink

ribs

Despite the bad press pork has received over the years (not to mention the derogatory-named swine flu), it is the king of the barbecue.  Spare ribs, baby back ribs, country ribs, ham, shoulder, Boston butts, loins, sausages, tenderloins and chops.  Not to mention craiclins, bacon, pig roasts, and suckling pigs!  Basically everything but the oink is fair game for the honorable griller and barbecuer.

This weekend, I am firing up my kettle with Lazzari, adding some pecan chunks and then slowly smoking 12 pounds of boneless, brown sugar brined pork putt.  When it’s finished, it will be sliced, pulled, chopped, sauced and eaten. “Uncle John” will then send gifts of pork butt to my sister-in-law and brother-in-law who recently welcomed a pair of babies into the world; Quinn and Rowan, my 17th and 18th niece/nephew.

To prepare for a Sunday pork butt celebration, let’s pay homage to the humble pig.  From Bon Appetit:
Pork Recipes Slideshow
America’s pork is better than ever, thanks to the revival of traditional farming and the rediscovery of heritage breeds. These 20 recipes prove just how good it is. For more information on heritage pork, see our ingredient guide to Heritage Pork.

Despite the bad press pork has received over the years (not to mention the derogatory-named swine flu), it is the king of the barbecue.  Spare ribs, baby back ribs, country ribs, ham, shoulder, Boston butts, loins, sausages, tenderloins and chops.  Not to mention craiclins, bacon, pig roasts, and suckling pigs!  Basically everything but the oink is fair game for the honorable griller and barbecuer.This weekend, I am firing up my kettle with Lazzari, adding some pecan chunks and then slowly smoking 12 pounds of boneless, brown sugar brined pork putt.  When it’s finished, it will be sliced, pulled, chopped, sauced and eaten. “Uncle John” will then send gifts of pork butt to my sister-in-law and brother-in-law who recently welcomed a pair of babies into the world; Quinn and Rowan, my 17th and 18th niece/nephew.

To prepare for a Sunday pork butt celebration, let’s pay homage to the humble pig.  From Bon Appetit:Pork Recipes SlideshowAmerica’s pork is better than ever, thanks to the revival of traditional farming and the rediscovery of heritage breeds. These 20 recipes prove just how good it is. For more information on heritage pork, see our ingredient guide to Heritage Pork.

“Pork Chops with Leeks in Mustard Sauce” href=”http://www.bonappetit.com/magazine/2009/05/pork_chops_with_leeks_in_mustard_sauce”>Pork Chops with Leeks in Mustard Sauce

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Photograph by Hans Gissinger

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Talking Turkey 2009 – Post #1

By JR | October 18, 2009 | education, holiday, tips | No comments

As we count down toward Thanksgiving 2009, Grilladelic will be scouring the four corners of the world (wide web) looking for grilled, smoked and barbecued turkey recipes that could transform your holiday.

This recipe is from the archives of Bon Appetit

First the turkey is soaked overnight in a brine to improve flavor and ensure moist meat. (Be sure to use a pot large enough to hold both the brine and the turkey.) The smokiness of the turkey is offset beautifully by the tangy, sweet glaze, which incorporates two quintessential Napa Valley ingredients: wine and mustard.

  • 6 quarts water
  • 2 large onions, quartered
  • 1 cup coarse salt
  • 1 cup chopped fresh ginger
  • 3/4 cup (packed) golden brown sugar
  • 4 large bay leaves
  • 4 whole star anise
  • 12 whole black peppercorns, crushed
    • 1 13- to 14-pound turkey, giblets discarded
    • 4 cups hickory smoke chips, soaked in water 30 minutes, drained [I would experiment with a fruit wood like apple or cherry.  If you are brave, I was told by an old turkey farmer from Graafschap that sassafras is the wood of choice for smoking turkey]
    • Disposable 9×6 1/4×1-inch aluminum broiler pans
    • 2 large oranges, cut into wedges
    • 1/4 cup olive oil
    • 2 tablespoons oriental sesame oil

    For glaze

    • 3/4 cup pure maple syrup
    • 1/2 cup dry white wine
    • 1/3 cup Dijon mustard
    • 2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) butter

    Preparation

    Make turkey:
    Combine first 8 ingredients in very large pot. Bring mixture to simmer, stirring until salt and sugar dissolve. Cool brine completely.

    Rinse turkey inside and out. Place turkey in brine, pressing to submerge. Chill overnight, turning turkey twice.  (A large plastic cooler works good for a brine container.  You can add ice to keep it cool too)

    If using charcoal barbecue: Mound charcoal briquettes in barbecue and burn until light gray. Using tongs, carefully divide hot briquettes into 2 piles, 1 pile at each side of barbecue. Sprinkle each pile with generous 1/2 cup hickory chips. Place empty broiler pan between piles. Position grill at least 6 inches above briquettes. Position vents on barbecue so that chips smoke and briquettes burn but do not flame.

    If using gas or electric barbecue: Preheat barbecue with all burners on high. Turn off center burner and lower outside burners to medium-low heat. Place generous 1/2 cup hickory chips in each of 2 broiler pans. Set pans over 2 lit burners. Place empty broiler pan over unlit burner. Position grill at least 6 inches above burners.

    Remove turkey from brine; discard brine. Pat turkey dry with paper towels. Place orange wedges in main cavity. Mix olive oil and sesame oil in small bowl. Brush over turkey. Arrange breast side up on grill, centering above empty broiler pan. Cover; cook until thermometer inserted into thickest part of thigh registers 160°F, adding 1 cup hickory chips (and 6 briquettes if using charcoal barbecue) to barbecue every 30 minutes, about 3 hours.

    For glaze:
    Bring all ingredients to simmer in heavy medium saucepan.

    Brush glaze over turkey; cover and cook until thermometer inserted into thickest part of thigh registers 180°F, covering any dark areas of turkey with foil, about 1 hour longer. Transfer turkey to platter. Tent with foil and let stand 30 minutes

    Fu-Fu on the Grill

    By JR | September 18, 2009 | education | No comments

    Grilling grapes and cheese seems a bit pretentious…but I’m OK with it…as long as Barry Manilow isn’t the musical side dish. (I’d recommend a little Willie Nile)

    From Bon Appetit’s website:

    7 Foods You Never Knew You Could Grill

    Grilladelic commentary is in red. Enjoy

    9:26 AM / August 26, 2009
    / Posted by Andrew Knowlton

    grillimg.jpg

    This summer, think outside the ‘cue. Grill these items for remarkably easy, wholly unexpected, and thoroughly delicious appetizers, garnishes, and side dishes.

    grapes.jpgGRAPES
    Small clusters won’t fall through the grate and will get even juicier and sweeter over the heat. Serve as a garnish with pork or sausage.
    Try this: Beer-Brined Grilled Pork Chops
    I can buy into this.  Grilled grapes next to some sizzling sausage should be tasty.

    CHEESE
    Briefly grill small wheels of soft cheese (such as Brie) uncut, in their rind, until just melting. Haloumi or queso fresco cheese work as well. Serve with other cheeses and fruit as an appetizer or simple dessert course.
    Try this: Grilled Cheese and Tomato Stacks
    Cheese is a grill classic.  Try Brie on a cedar plank.  Just soak the plank in water for several hours, place over the coals or burners and get it smoking (but not igniting). Set the Brie on the plank, close the cover and damp down the heat.  It doesn’t take long, 5 minutes +/-..but it is nice!  Hey, throw those grapes on top of the Brie!

    ROOT VEGETABLES
    Steam or parboil root vegetables such as carrots, parsnips, turnips, potatoes, or sweet potatoes until slightly tender. Toss with olive oil, salt and pepper, and your choice of herbs. Grill over medium heat until charred.
    Try this: Grilled Smashed Potatoes
    No brainer. Yukon Golds, partially cooked then rubbed with EVO, kosher salt, black pepper and a little rosemary on the grill  is one of the seven wonders of the world.
    frisee.jpg

    FRISEE
    Toss lightly in olive oil, salt, and pepper, and cook over medium-hot grill just to wilt.
    Add to: salads for smoky flavor and textural contrast.
    Try this: Lobster Salad with Fresh Mint and Lime
    Don’t buy into this. Not in my wheelhouse.

    SHELLFISH
    Shrimp and lobsters are excellent grill foods–so too are clams and oysters. Place the freshest clams or oysters you can buy directly on the grill over high heat. Cover and cook until shellfish opens, 4 to 5 minutes. Eat straight from the grill with simply a squeeze of lemon and hot sauce.
    Try this: Grill-Roasted Clam Linguine

    Shellfish has been grilled for eons.   Not to unusual.
    MELONS
    A few seconds on a hot grill does wonders for watermelon, cantaloupe, honeydew and other melons. Not only do the grill marks look appetizing, they taste good too–the heat caramelizes the sugars of the fruit resulting in a mildly smokey and nutty flavor.
    Try this: Brochette of Melon, Prosciutto, and Fresh Mozzarella
    This might be worth trying…but not sure.
    citrus.jpgCITRUS
    Halved and charred, cut side down, limes, lemons, and oranges are a beautiful garnish for fish and chicken. The sugars caramelize and make a smoky-sweet sauce to squeeze over the food.
    Try this: Grilled Halibut with Grilled Red Pepper Harissa

    I like the garnish angle.   Plus, I like squeezing fresh lemons and limes on my meats during grilling.  Keeps it moist and adds a nice little flavor kick.  Now just squeeze then toss the citrus half on the grill afterwards.  Recycling!

    A Grilladelic Christmas- Perfect Gift #7

    By JR | December 18, 2008 | products, reviews | No comments

    Tough economic times calls for creativity in gift giving.  No question, I would love a Grillery or a Weber Ranch Kettle for Christmas, but my babies need new pairs of shoes.

    So after you buy the shoes, you have a few sheckles left in your pocket….just enough to give the gift of knowledge.  A subscription to Bon Appetit Magazine,

    With the possible exception of Saveur, I think Bon Appetit has the most accessible recipes and great information about techniques.  For example, here is a recipe using a technique I have described as “dry brining”.  In the Bon Appetit world, it is known as “salting”. Forget what you call it…it works.

    maar_turkey_salting_v

    Salted Roast Turkey
    Smoked salt and paprika give this turkey a smoky southwestern flavor that pairs very nicely with the spicy-sweet gravy. Look for Halen Môn oak-smoked sea salt at specialty foods stores and surfasonline.com.
    8 to 12 servings
    November 2008

    Ingredients

    southwestern-spiced salt

    • 1 tablespoon cumin seeds
    • 1/3 cup mild oak-smoked sea salt (such as Halen Môn)
    • 1 tablespoon smoked paprika
    • 1 tablespoon dried oregano
    • 1 teaspoon ground chipotle chile powder

    turkey

    • 1 14- to 16-pound turkey (neck, heart, and gizzard reserved)
    • 1/4 cup honey
    • 2 teaspoons ground chipotle chile powder divided
    • 1 large onion, chopped
    • 12 garlic cloves, chopped
    • 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature
    • 2 cups Golden Turkey Stock

    gravy

    • 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
    • 1 1/2 pounds onions, chopped
    • 4 cups (about) Golden Turkey Stock
    • 1/2 cup all purpose flour

    Preparation

    southwestern-spiced salt

    • Toast cumin in skillet over medium heat until darker and beginning to smoke, stirring often, about 2 minutes. Cool; grind finely in spice mill or in mortar with pestle. Transfer to bowl. Mix in remaining ingredients. DO AHEAD Can be made 1 week ahead. Cover; store at room temperature.

    turkey

    • Rinse turkey inside and out (do not pat dry). Pull any fat pads from main cavity and neck cavity of turkey; wrap, chill, and reserve fat for roasting. Place turkey in roasting bag; sprinkle inside and out with southwestern-spiced salt. Close bag. Place on baking sheet; refrigerate 18 to 24 hours.
    • Position rack in bottom third of oven and preheat to 325°F. Mix honey and 1 teaspoon ground chipotle chile in small bowl; reserve for glaze. Rinse turkey inside and out; pat very dry. Stir chopped onion, garlic, and 1 teaspoon ground chipotle chile in medium bowl to blend. Divide mixture between main and neck cavities. Fold neck skin under and secure with skewer. Tuck wing tips under. Tie legs together loosely.
    • Place turkey on rack set in large roasting pan. Spread butter all over turkey. Place reserved fat pads and reserved neck, heart, and gizzard in roasting pan; pour in 2 cups Golden Turkey Stock.
    • Roast turkey 45 minutes. Baste with pan juices. Continue to roast until thermometer inserted into thickest part of thigh registers 165°F to 170°F, basting every 45 minutes, adding water to pan by cupfuls if dry, and tenting turkey loosely with foil if browning too quickly, 3 to 3 1/2 hours longer. Brush turkey with glaze twice during last 30 minutes. Transfer turkey to platter; tent very loosely with foil and let rest 30 to 45 minutes. Reserve roasting pan with juices for gravy.

    gravy

    • Melt butter in medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add onions; sauté 5 minutes. Reduce heat to medium-low; cook until onions are deep brown, stirring occasionally, about 30 minutes. Set aside.
    • Remove turkey neck, heart, and gizzard from roasting pan. Pull meat off neck; chop neck meat, heart, and gizzard and reserve for gravy, if desired. Pour pan juices into 8-cup measuring cup. Spoon off fat from surface, reserving 1/2 cup fat. Add enough turkey stock to degreased pan juices to measure 5 1/2 cups total.
    • Place roasting pan over 2 burners on medium heat. Add 1/2 cup reserved fat and 1/2 cup flour to pan. Whisk until roux is light brown, about 2 minutes. Whisk in stock mixture. Bring to boil, scraping up browned bits and whisking. Boil until gravy coats spoon, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes. Add caramelized onions. Add chopped neck, heart, and gizzard, if desired. Season with salt and pepper.
    • Serve turkey with gravy.
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